Thinking of Visiting Munich? 9 Reasons You Should go to Nuremberg Instead

If you are planning a trip to Germany, then chances are you are considering visiting Munich. If you Google “top cities to visit in Germany”, Munich will definitely be on the list and most likely in the top five recommended cities. Nearby Nuremberg, meanwhile, rarely makes the top of the list.

What most people are looking for in a trip to Munich is CULTURE and TRADITION. Bavaria, the state that Munich and Nuremberg are both located in, is known for its thriving, old-world culture, medieval towns, and romantic castles. As the largest city in Bavaria, Munich tends to draw the most attention while Nuremberg, less than two hours to the north by car (or about an hour by high-speed train), is largely overlooked.

Here are just a few of the many reasons why you should skip your trip to Munich and head to Nuremberg instead.

1. It has a Medieval Castle

A portion of the Kaiserburg as viewed from within the dry moat.

Ok, Munich does have the Nymphenburg Palace, which was built in 1675 (and is beautiful). But Nuremberg has a true medieval CASTLE! It was built and expanded over the course of many centuries, but the earliest parts date back to 1138. The Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) was most notably the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. The castle holds a commanding location on top of a hill on the northernmost edge of the old city (Altstadt). This lends the city unique dimension, as you can see the castle looming over the city from many vantage points. I highly recommend visiting the castle overlook for a gorgeous view out over the cityscape.

Admission to the castle interior is inexpensive and well worth the cost but, for the budget-conscious traveler, the castle courtyards, overlook, and glorious castle gardens are all free and open to the public.

Did I mention you can STAY in the castle? The city Youth Hostel is located in the portion of the castle pictured above.

2. It is a Walled City

Looking out from the city wall on the Neutor gate.

Nuremberg’s city wall runs almost continuously around the 5 kilometer circumference of the old city. A paved pathway and parks run through the dry moat beside the wall, making for a lovely stroll with gorgeous views, especially behind the Kaiserburg. There are several places where you can walk around on top of the walls, including several restaurants with seating or biergartens built onto them. My favorite way to explore the walls and ramparts (and feel like Cersei Lannister while doing so) is through the castle gardens. You can stroll around the manicured gardens on top of castle ramparts and then follow the gardens along the wall for about a kilometer.

3. More Meandering Cobblestoned Streets and Charming Half-timbered Houses

Weissgerbergasse (the street with the city’s most beautiful half-timbers)

 The old city of Munich is quite limited; the architectural style is predominantly Baroque– streets like this one above are nowhere to be found. Meanwhile, Nuremberg sports far more beautiful half-timber houses and numerous winding cobblestoned streets.  You can visit the Albrecht Durer House (the home of Germany’s most famous Renaissance artist) to explore a medieval half-timber house and gain a glimpse of what life looked like during the time period.

4. More Pedestrian Streets and Better Walkability

The old city of Nuremberg is largely car-free and no major roads cut through the center–making it extremely pedestrian friendly. The city has a population of over 500,000, but within the walled old city you could easily think you were in a small town. You can wander the streets staring up at all the sights and rarely have to worry about passing cars.

Pretty much everything you might want to see is within the city walls, making walking the ideal form of transportation.

5. More Beer and Better Bratwurst

Enjoying a delicious Dunkel beer at a riverside biergarten.

Okay, all of Germany has a lot of beer–and most of it is excellent. But Franconia, the region of northern Bavaria that Nuremberg is located in, has the highest density of microbreweries in the world. If you happen to be in the city for a beer festival, then you are in for an extra special treat. But even if you are not, high-quality beer is in abundance.

And what is the perfect pairing for a good beer? Bratwurst! The city’s famous Nuremberger sausages, while admittedly smaller than Munich’s boiled weisswurst, are widely recognized as Germany’s tastiest bratwurst. These little numbers, made exclusively with grade-A meats and herbs, are boiled in vats of red wine and onions and smoked over beechwood. Snag a Drei-im-weckla (three sausages in a fresh baked roll) to-go to enjoy while exploring the city, or sit down at a restaurant for a whole plate served with sauerkraut and potato salad.

6. TWO Gorgeous Gothic Churches

St. Lorenz, the largest church in the city. Photo cred Devan Johnson Photography

Munich has some stunning churches, but none that can compare with Nuremberg’s dual gothic architectural gems: St. Lorenz and St. Sebald. St. Sebald, the older of the two, dates back to 1225.

The interiors of both of these churches will instantly transport you back to the middle ages. Dimly lit, with iron-studded doors, faded frescos, and lots of medieval art, the atmosphere is laden with the ghosts of ages past.

7. The Largest Christmas Market

The Christmas Market in the Hauptmarkt (central market square).

The Christmas Market is one of the few things that Nuremberg gets fair recognition for, as it is the largest in Germany. If you happen to be visiting Germany in December, then a visit to Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is a must. It is as if all of the beauty and joy of Christmas is made manifest in one place. A magical mixture of Bavarian nuts, bratwurst smoke, and the warm spices of Glühwein (mulled wine) fill the air. The streets glow with Christmas lights and people shuffle up and down the rows of stalls looking at glimmering, handmade ornaments while sipping hot beverages from keepsake Nuremberg mugs.

8. Medieval Dungeons and Beer Cellars Under the City

Underneath this medieval city is a labyrinth of tunnels, cellars, and dungeons. You can do a tour of both the beer cellars (ending with a beer tasting at one of the cities oldest breweries) and of the medieval dungeons.

9.  Better Accessibility to Day-Trips

 

Regensburg on the Danube.

If you want a home base to explore the many cultural gems of Bavaria, then Nuremberg is the place to be located. Most of the region’s best day trips are as close or closer to Nuremberg than they are to Munich. Set up camp in Nuremberg and utilize Germany’s amazing rail service to access smaller cities like Würzburg, Regensburg, Bamberg, Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber, Dinkelsbühl, and more!
I hope that by now I have convinced you to visit Nuremberg. To be fair, Munich is a nice city and worth a short visit if you have the time. But if you are looking for an authentic German cultural experience steeped in history, then Nuremberg is where you want to be.

The Rose Man in Rome

Rome, Italy
Spring, 2012

It was our last night in Rome. It was one of those lovely spring evenings when the air is the perfect mixture of warm and cool which feels like a perpetual kiss to the cheek. We were sad to end our time in such a beautiful place and we had spent the evening stalling our goodbye. We wandered the quiet streets from the Trevi Fountain, to the Spanish Stairs, and through winding back streets until we finally found ourselves at the Colosseum.

The ancient structure was at full aesthetic advantage in the soft glow of the street lights; the crowds of the afternoon vanished–leaving open space to amplify its majestic stance. We made our way to a secluded bench where we could sit and bask in the beauty around us. As I sat there, under the walls of the Colosseum, with the arm of the man I loved around me, in one of the most beautiful, romantic cities in the world, I had one of those moments of utter surreality that sometimes overwhelm me. At these times I am simply in awe of the present beauty of my life and feel almost distant from myself–marveling at my own experiences as an outsider.

As I was processing all of this I caught movement out of the corner of my eye. I looked and saw a man carrying a bundle of roses walking in our general direction. He caught my eye. I looked away quickly; but it was too late–we had made eye contact. His trajectory changed from generally in our direction to straight for us. If you have ever been to Rome than you know why I was horrified with my mistake.

Most cities, especially tourist cities, have plenty of street vendors and peddlers continually trying to sell you their wares. But in Rome, more so than most cities I’ve been to, some of these peddlers can be particularly persistent and aggressive in their attempts to make a sale. And of all of these, the rose men are the worst. They prey on the unsuspecting tourist, offering a rose as if as a gift, when the victim accepts the rose the peddler then demands money, but refuses to take back the rose and, unless you throw the rose on the ground, the only way to get rid of the salesman is to give him the money.

Even those who are wise to this trick have a hard time escaping the rose man. Once you make eye contact you are doomed. He swoops in like a hawk, with a rose held out in your face, and when you dismiss it he follows with continuous cajoling and flattery–insisting you take the rose. I’m not exaggerating to say you either have to run away or curse him out to escape. It is a miserable interaction every time.

And now, in the middle of this perfect, romantic moment, I had drawn one toward us. I turned to Tyler, and thinking quickly, said, “Make-out with me, now!” We immediately embraced, eyes closed, pretending to be oblivious to the man’s approach–surely he wouldn’t want to harass a gross, sappy, couple. But with dread we heard the continued sound of footsteps on cobble stone approaching us. But we persisted–we were committed now. The footsteps grew closer, and closer, and then they stopped–right in front of us. I’m sure I blushed, feeling his eyes on us, even though mine were closed. But we clung to each other–determined to make him so uncomfortable that he would leave. Surely he would leave.

The silence continued for what felt like an eternity, but could only have been a moment’s pause before we heard, “Ah, romantico.” In complete surprise and indignation we broke apart and looked up at the man standing over us. He was looking down at us with a grin on his face, rose extended toward us.

Our mouths hung open for a moment in shock before we began the usual chastising dismissal. Finally, Tyler said, “GO AWAY.” The rose man shrugged, still grinning, and  walked away. Tyler and I looked at each other in utter amazement and horror and I said, “I was sure he would go away!”  Then we burst into uncontrolled laughter–the sheer ridiculousness of the situation overwhelming us.